Winter is here!

Hey guys!
Now that the cold wearther made itself at home throughout the land...I thought that it would be a good ideea to write about some winter/snow vehicles.
The first one that I will write about is the 2008 FX Nytro RTX from Yamaha.

In my oppinion, the best thing that this snowmobile can do is...the good old wheelie, that us, bikers, really miss when snow covers the road. This way...the "wheelie-feeling" is back!

Here are some of the new model's features, split into some categories:

Performance
Genesis® 130FI 4-stroke engine
The new fast-revving, high torque 130hp-class Genesis 130FI boasts a 14 horsepower gain over the Genesis 120. That gain can be credited to a slightly larger displacement, 1050cc 3-cylinder design and the introduction of Yamaha’s advanced fuel injection technology. The Genesis 130FI uses lightweight crank technology and the fuel injection system to deliver razor-sharp throttle response. It also features new Engine Braking Reduction System to give riders some “coast” feeling when the throttle is released.

Advanced fuel injection
The Genesis 130FI uses Yamaha’s advanced fuel injection system to control fuel flow to the engine. Consumers will enjoy the engine’s spot-on performance and throttle response as a result of the advanced electronic fuel injection system.
Engine braking reduction system
The Genesis 130FI features the unique Engine Braking Reduction System. The system gives riders more of a “coast” feeling when the throttle is released.

Lightweight rear-exiting exhaust
The patented rear exit design serves many performance-enhancing functions on the FX Nytro RTX. First, it maximizes horsepower by using a straight exhaust pipe design. Second, it reduces the amount of under-hood heat produced. Third, the rear-exiting design distributes weight to contribute to the excellent balance of the sled.

Forced air radiator ducting
The FX Nytro RTX’s airflow design pulls fresh air in from around the headlight and forces it through the radiator fins for high cooling capacity, resulting in consistent engine performance even in low-snow conditions.
15x121x1.25-inch


The Camoplast Rip Saw track is a standard feature on the FX Nytro RTX. It has been widely acclaimed in the industry as the best all-around OEM track for acceleration, cornering bite and everyday trail usage. The Rip Saw™ track development is the result of a collaborative effort between Yamaha and Camoplast.

Handling
FX™ chassis with sport rider-forward position
The compact design puts the engine down low and back in the chassis, leaving the top of the cab open for airflow. This gives the FX Nytro RTX a more centralized mass. The FX Nytro RTX’s sport rider-forward ergonomic design puts the rider in an aggressive, yet comfortable, forward posture.

Over-the-engine steering
The new snocross-proven over-the-engine steering configuration gives the rider excellent posture on the sled. It also allows the engine to be tucked deep into the chassis for optimum balance and mass centralization which contributes to the sled’s overall handling characteristic.

Tall, hooked bars
To match the tall and forward position, a single-piece, dual-hooked handlebar is standard fare on the FX Nytro RTX. The hooks have the same grip material as the main bar section, for consistent control, regardless of hand position on the grip. The warmer element extends all the way to the end of the hooks for rider comfort.

Tall shock tower front suspension
The tall shock tower design on the FX Nytro RTX’s double wishbone front suspension allows the sled to have excellent ground clearance and long shock travel without compromising the sled’s flat cornering stability.

Composite upper skeleton
The headlight assembly and upper portion of the FX Nytro RTX is supported by a super-lightweight composite framework. By using a rugged, high tech composite material as the structure for the top portion of the sled, Yamaha engineers were able to keep the mass centered low and deep in the chassis, which aids handling.

Beveled deep tunnel design
The deep tunnel on the FX Nytro RTX locates riders’ feet, and thus their weight when standing, very low on the sled. This significantly aids in the sled’s handling. The bevel at the top allows the sled to use a traditional 15-inch-wide track, for excellent traction, in conjunction with a plush narrow seat, for rider comfort.

Comfort
Dual Shock Pro rear suspension
The race-proven Dual Shock Pro rear suspension is the culmination of four years of development, testing, racing and redevelopment to produce the ultimate big bump rear suspension. Stacked with a pair of aggressive shocks, the FX Nytro RTX’s rear suspension is engineered to handle the deep pits and big moguls you’ll find in the ditches and trails.

40mm dual-clicker shocks
The Dual Shock Pro suspension is fitted with a pair of 40mm shocks with remote reservoirs and compression and rebound clickers. The shocks’ 16mm rod is ultra rugged for rough trail usage. Consumers will be able to set their suspensions up to their specific tastes.

Fox FLOAT shocks use an air spring designed to force the piston to rebound. This eliminates the need for steel coil springs. They cut three pounds off the sled’s overall weight, as compared to traditional coil over springs. They are individually tunable by using a pocket-sized air pump, which comes with the sled, so consumers will be able to set the front suspension up to their liking.

Sculpted narrow seat
The FX Nytro RTX has a narrow seat for added comfort. In addition to putting the rider in a tall, forward, attack posture, the seat’s height makes it plush and comfortable for a full day of riding. The narrow seat sits atop the beveled tunnel, which allows the track to be a traditional 15 inches wide, to maximize traction.

Digital gauge
The digital gauge displays key information at a glance. Vehicle speed is displayed on a large LCD readout either in miles or kilometers per hour. In addition, the rider can select tachometer, odometer or tripmeter data to appear on secondary readout. The gauge also displays system warning lights, fuel level, warmer intensity so that the rider can monitor the sled’s operation easily.

Quick-release, single-piece hood/console shroud
The FX Nytro RTX has a single-piece hood and console shroud. The design allows owners to open and close the top portion of the sled easily with Dzus® quick-connect fasteners.

These are official facts, released by the manufacturer Yamaha for the 2008 model.
Further more, for interested readers, are some technical specs:

Engine
Type / Displacement / cc Four-stroke, 1049cc
Cylinders Three
Horsepower Class 130 HP
Cooling Liquid
Bore & Stroke / mm 82.0 X 66.2
Intake Design 2 Valves
Ignition Digital T.C.I. w/Throttle Position Sensor
Carburetion 41mm Mikuni®, Fuel Injection
Exhaust Rear Exhaust
Clutch / Transmission YVXC, Variable Ratio
Disc. Brake Type 4 Piston Hydraulic with Lightweight Disc


Chassis
Front Suspension Independent, Double Wishbone
Front Shocks Fox™ FLOAT™ Air Shock, Aluminum
Front Travel / in. N/A
Ski Type Lightweight Plastic, Saddleless Design
Carbide Ski Runners Standard
Stabilizer Bar Standard, Linear Ratio
Rear Suspension Dual Shock Pro
Rear Shocks 40mm HPG w/reservoir, dual-clicker / 40mm HPG w/reservoir, dual-clicker adjustable
Rear Travel / in. 14.5"


Dimensions
Overall Length / in. 108.5"
Overall Width / in. 48"
Overall Height / in. 42.9"
Track/Width x Length x Height / in. 15" X 121" X 1.25" Camoplast Rip Saw
Estimated Dry Weight 513 lbs. / 520 lbs. (reverse model)
Ski Stance (ctr. to ctr.) in. 41.3"
Fuel Capacity / Gal. 7.4
Fuel Type Regular Unleaded
Oil Capacity / Qts. 3, Dry Sump
Engine Oil Type Yamalube 4, 0w-30, Cold Weather Formula


Features
Electric Start Standard
Reverse Optional, model with reverse also available
Hand & Thumb Warmers To-the-end, 10-position adjustable
Windshield Height Low
Mirrors Optional
Seating Capacity One
Backrest N/A
Rear Carrier Rack N/A
Tow Hitch N/A
Tunnel Protectors Standard
Headlight Watts, Type 60/55W Halogen x 2
High Beam Indicator Standard
Oil & Temp Light Standard
Fuel Gauge Type Electric (LCD), Low Fuel Warning Light
Speedometer Standard (LCD, Digital)
Odometer Standard (Large LCD Display)
Tripmeter Standard, Backlit (LCD)
Tachometer Standard, Backlit (LCD)

Aprilia Shiver SL750

Hey guys.
As you should be aware...free time is not my "thing". So I haven't been able to post any new articlaes lately, but I will come back strong with some cool articles and reviews.
Right now...a short review of the Aprilia Shiver SL750, because life is short...but I will update it later on this day.
It's a good bike, but personally, I don't "love it". Somebody who visited my blog, took my advice and sent em an e-mail with a request. He wants to know more about this Aprilia Shiver SL750. So I will try my best to help him by gathering the most info there is on the Internet to be able to make a good, detailed review.
At the moment, the technical specs:

"The front end is this bike’s strong point. The 43mm USD forks feel solid and transmit plenty of feedback to the rider."

Engine:
The 750cc 90° V-twin is the first Aprilia-built engine. The compression ratio is low at 11:1, and it sports a hydraulic clutch.

Frame:
The frame is an aluminium trellis held together by high tension bolts and reinforced aluminium lateral plates. The swingarm is also aluminium.

Sophisticated riding:
The Shiver uses a sophisticated electronic throttle control system that optimises the opening of the throttle bodies using different parameters: engine rpm, gear selected, speed, temperature, atmospheric pressure and so on.

Suspension:
The 43mm upside-down forks are non-adjustable. The Sachs rear shock is adjustable for preload and rebound damping.

Brakes:
The front gets radial-mounted calipers that bite two 320mm floating discs, while the rear gets a 245mm single disc. Brake lines
are steel braided hoses.

That's a short detail...but more are bound to come later. Thanx for understanding me and...
Dry roads, riders!

KTM Super Duke R

"The angular styling reflects the bike’s handling. It’s sharp, hard and purposeful."

Hey there guys!
To break the spree of Tips & Tricks I thought it would be good to write about another "monster"...and that surely is the KTM Super Duke R. It eraned the right to be caled a monster, and I just know that everyone that will read this review will agree with me. The aggro look...the powerfull engine...the technical specs...everything adds up to his "monster-ness". Just read on...
Of course...it's not an "all-good" bike...as all other motorcycles, it has ups and downs...just like our relationships with girls(or boys...I don't want to upset anyone ;) )
The first thing...and I think that it's the only thing that I don't like is the high seat. But, that's my thing...even with the high seat, the bike has very good handling andremains a cool monster bike.
I would rather have a low-seat bike, because I always liked to be able to touch the ground with my entire foot. (Not my leg of course ... ) But hey, there are other things...many things that I do like at this motorcycle. Like I said before, it has a very cool aggressive aspect, and from the pictures, 'cause I never had the chance to ride one, it looks to be a smooth ride and a comfortable position.
More aggressively styled than the already aggressive-looking stock bike, the Duke R is the Stealth Bomber of the bike market.

Off to some technical specs :

■Frame
The chromium molybdenum tubular trellis frame follows suit with the more established Ducati steel trellis set-up. This design weighs 9kg yet ensures stability, strength and control from different direction (than a conventional aluminium perimeter frame).

■Engine
The 990 LC8 motor is a reliable lump with plenty of extreme development history
(like Dakar rallies). The R gets different cams and, along with the 2007 stock motor,
an evolved head to improve combustion. New fuel mapping adds more power and less
emissions. A slipper clutch is standard and does a good job.


■Brakes
Brembo radial caliper with a radial master cylinder on 320mm front discs means you have superbike-spec stoppers but with a touch more feel than the Ducati’s
similarly-specced ones. Floating rear disc is a regulatory 240mm.

■Suspension
48mm upside down WP forks are titanium nitride coated and, like the WP shock are
fully adjustable. Shock has high and low speed compression damping adjustment.
WP adjustable steering damper is standard, which is just awesome. Dampers are very useful...and when they some in standard...it's even better.

■Wheels/tyres
Pirelli Diablo 3 tyres were fi tted here but OEspec is Dunlop Qualifier RR. Both suit the bike’s sportier intentions but maintain neutral road manners. Carbon wheels are optional, but I would get them...because if I would buy this bike, it would be by using a motorcycle loan. There are not very familiar in my country, but good salaries are not familiar either.
So...what's an unemployed student to do to get his dream bike?
GET A LOAN...somehow, or lower your standards and wait a little longer. And that "little longer" is hated by everyone, because it doesn't reffer to something in particular...it's just waiting for some miracle to happen. If you want something, go for it, full speed ahead. I will do some more research on loans, motorcycle loans and so on, to be able to offer information about these aspects of a biker's life, too. Because a lot of people neglect this aspect...I won't.

Back to "our" monster KTM Super Duke R...i got my hands on some Dyno test results for it...and here's what came out:
For the ... :
■Engine
Type: l/c, 8v, DOHC 75° V-twin
Displacement: 999cc
Bore x Stroke: 101 x 62.4mm
Compression: 11.5:1
Carburation: Electronic fuel injection, 50mm throttle bodies
Gearbox: Six-speed Power: 108.7bhp@9,600rpm
Torque: 67.7lbf ft@7,450rpm

■ CYCLE PARTS
Chassis: Chromium-molybdenum trellis Suspension: (F) 48mm USD WP forks, fully adj.
(R) WP mono shock fully adj.
Brakes: (F) twin 320mm discs, four-piston Brembo calipers
(R) single 240mm disc, twin-piston Brembo caliper
Wheels/tyres: Cast aluminium / Pirelli Diablo Corsa
(F) 120/70-17
(R) 180/55-17
Seat height: 865mm
Wheelbase: 1,450mm
Fuel Capacity: 18.5 litres (4.89gals)
Dry weight: 186kg (410lbs)

Of course...after such a complete review...the price cannot be omitted...The KTM Super Duke R comes in with the price of ~ $ 18,700, which I guess...it's a little high for my taste. But if you really want this bike, then folow my advice and get a motorcycle loan...it can be useful.

Well, 'nuff said about this bike and life as it really shows to be...
Just keep riding safe and
Dry roads, riders!

Safety comes in numbers!

Hey there!
Continuing my series of Tips & Tricks, I am writing about the difference between riding alone and riding with some fellow bikers.
Here's how you can organize your bike-riding group for maximum safety:

1.
Get to know the people you ride with. Most likely you do already but you should know who is the smoothest and fastest and therefore a good man to follow, or who is a dangerous lunatic and should be avoided at all times. Knowing the relative experience
and ability of the people around you will help you relax more and make it more enjoyable.

2.
Have a plan of action. Where are you riding to? What route are you taking? If everyone gets split up will the ones at the front wait at the next junction or will you see them at the cafe at midday? So long as everyone knows the rules, no matter how loose they might be, no-one should get into a panic about getting lost.

3.
The man at the front has more responsibility than the rest. He has to know the way but also needs to dictate the pace and attitude of the group. If he rides like a twat
he’ll either piss off into the distance or he’ll cause everyone else to ride too fast behind him and potentially ask a bit too much of some. So only go at the
front if you’re confi dent, know the road/directions and be prepared to use your mirrors.

4.
If you’re not the front man don’t feel pressure to keep up or keep ahead of the bloke
in your mirrors. It won’t do you any good to be trying to ride above your ability and worrying about what others are doing when you should be thinking about your own riding. Make sure you have pre-arranged plans in place for people getting split up, stay cool and enjoy the ride.

5.
Similarly if you can keep up don’t follow too close. If you know the way and you’re
faster, then overtake and stop bothering your mate in front. Meet everyone at the next junction, lay-by or wherever. If you don’t know the way and aren’t confident getting to the front, stop thinking you’re Valentino and back-off a little.

More safety advice coming...

- Use the person in front like the ghost rider on MotoGP game on Playstation, looking through and past them making your own decisions, and not staring at their back wheel and mimicking. If the person in front out-brakes himself and runs into the
hedge you don’t want to follow him do you?

- Being at the back isn’t always the worst place to be. From there you can often see
the knock-on effect of everyone following and copying each others lines, braking
points and reactions and where they are going wrong. Giving yourself more space
and drop-off can help you to learn where you can be smoother and faster .

- If the group comes across a line of cars don’t all overtake each individual car en-mass. It can’t hurt to go past one at a time can it really? If you try to all overtake at once the person (people) at the back will have to squeeze in between the
cars and if you’ve picked a particularly stubborn car driver you might find there’s no gap at all.
- Also there are aprticular signs that are used when riding in a group...some of these signs can be seen in the folowing picture :

I shall keep posting Tips & Tricks to make everyone's ride smoother and safer.
Keep riding safe and...
Dry roads, riders!

Ride Faster And SAFER In The Rain

Hey guys!
To take some sort of brake from posting about motorcycles, and winning me some time for more research on my folwing projects, I thought it would be a good/great idea to post some very useful tips & tricks.
For today, I'll write some tips about riding in the rain. 'Cause eeryone knows how much of a hell can that be.Well, with these tips, you could get your game right on the rain, too. Just read on.
Riding in the rain has to depend on what you can see. So ride with your eyes peeled. In the wet your braking marker may, change from turn to turn. So use your judgement about the road ahead more to decide where to brake, turn-in, apex, accelerate.
Your ability to “feel” might not be so high in the rain and it’s normal to lack
some confidence. But remember, you don't have to get your bike to the limit everytime you ride, especially on rain. Be carefull!
More thinking, less over-reacting!
As ever you should ride alert, aware of the conditions and conscious there is less grip available. If the worst should happen and you should feel a slip or slide don’t panic and over-react because you could save the situation. Steer away from it and, because you have given yourself more room on the road, your instant reaction should be to stand the bike up. You never know, you might just get away with it.
There are other, odd, hazards to remember about too. On the motorway, spray from big trucks can literally blind you for a second, so don’t panic, and power through fast.
Hitting a deep puddle at speed can make the front tyre aquaplane. Again, don’t panic – unless you’re on a bend or braking, you’ll probably come out okay.

Now to the actual TIPS:

1. Room for a view
The fi rst tip therefore is to give yourself room on the road to dodge hazards or,
perish the thought, control the odd slide. Don’t ride too near the edge of the road
either because that means you’ve reached the outer limit of the available space. Don’t ride too close to other traffic either.

2. Stay calm
Remember to be smooth, relaxed and don’t ask your bike to do anything too suddenly. That means not being aggressive or ham-fi sted with the brakes, throttle or steering. Even if you have to brake hard, feed the lever on progressively rather than
suddenly grabbing a fistful.

3. Hang Loose
Don’t ride around gripping the bars too tight and tensing your body up either, relax
and breathe normally and give yourself better chance to react and control the bike.

4. Be observant
Learning which road surfaces offer more or less grip is part of being a biker but it’s even more important in the wet. A road surface with lots of large, shiny stones
on the surface offers less traction. Cobbles are the worst. Watch out for changes in
road surface, road markings, drain covers and over-banding (the glue sealing joints or cracks in the Tarmac).

5. Be prepared
Take waterproofs, because you never know. Work out the best way to seal your gloves to your jacket cuffs to stop rain running in. Modern waterproof kit is better than ever, so it’s worth updating if yours is more than three years old. Being cold and
wet makes riding in the rain seem much worse than it is.