Triumph Street Triple

Born of thoroughbred stock, the new Street Triple offers the heart of the thrilling Daytona 675 and the soul of the lawless Speed Triple

Some motorcycles need long, flowery introductions to ease into an amusing, anecdote filled report on its ability. The new Triumph Street Triple is no such machine, for to waste words on setting dramatic scenes or carefully constructed stories would be doing the most exciting bike of 2007 a huge injustice. I’m sorry to ruin the end of this tale, but after one of the best day’s riding I’ll ever have I can’t keep you in suspense as to the Street Triple’s talents until my fi nal paragraph. Too often we talk about naked middleweight machines as being dumbed down and stripped bare. The recipe is simple enough, but the execution of it is hard to master. Some bikes end up being too revvy and unsuitable for their new application, while other bikes finish up as dreary, soulless shadows of their former selves. But once in a generation a bike comes along and blows every preconceived notion about the class into smithereens.

And that bike is the Street Triple. With the heritage of the Speed Triple as one
parent and the dynamism of the Daytona 675 as the other, the Street Triple always had the potential to be a wild child. It’s like having a rockstar dad and a swimsuit model mother. And so it came to pass...Launched on the shores of Lake Garda, and using roads that the renowned Trento-Bondone hill climb route scorches up, the test for this naked machine couldn’t have been sterner. Any corner cutting, so obvious in this class, would be cruelly exposed through a route whose corners ranged in speed for 20mph to 120mph. Its unadjustable suspension would feel mushy and imprecise, its cheap two-piston sliding brake clippers would fade and capitulate and its revised engine would wheeze meekly at altitudes that reached 1,700 metres
surely? On other machines maybe, but not the Street Triple. The day started
brilliantly with Lake Garda disappearing in the rear-view mirrors. The lake wasn’t replaced by more stunning scenery, but rather with Tarmac as the fi rst of what felt
like a hundred wheelies was executed out of the swish Italian resort. My wheelies are normally unspectacular in both height and length, but the bike loaned me talent for the rest of the day. But stunts would have to wait as almost immediately into the
120km ride the route took us up a blissful ribbon of road into the stunning Dolomites scenery. The surface was unusually good for an Italian road, but the challenge was anything but easy – and this is where the Street Triple’s Daytona 675 DNA comes into its own. The 675 is an amazingly lithe and exact bike, classleading
in fact, and given that the Street Triple shares almost everything of the 675’s chassis it comes as no surprise that the Triple made light work of this harsh terrain. I had coffee and croissants for breakfast. The Street Triple had this tortuous strada. Even if Triumph had lavished the Triple with the same adjustable
suspension as the 675, I wouldn’t have touched a thing on this bike. And the unadjustable suspension (except for preload on the rear) seemed to offer easy compliance to a wide range of shapes and sizes with the rear Dunlop Qualifi er tyre being the first to buckle. Sublime stoppers Quick to turn, especially with the wider bars, the Triple offers amazing feedback and precision through a huge range of
corners. Feeling solid and stable in quick turns, but responsive and easysteering
through slower ones, the Street Triple breeds confi dence like a contagious infection – and within a few corners you’ll be the next victim of this horrendously fun disease. But those cheap, nasty brakes were nagging away at me. But what better
way to test them than to charge up to a dozen hairpin bends at anything up to 100mph and then shed 80mph in as shorter time as you dare. That’ll show Triumph up to be
the corner cutters that they are, surely? Well, no actually. The brakes are amazing. Yes, the two piston Nissin sliding calipers work as well in this context as the 675’s
do on the race track. Friendly, but ultimately forceful, they suit the bike to a tee.
OK, so Triumph has got the chassis and suspension spot-on, they’ve sorted the brakes
too. Surely they’ve messed up the engine, detuning the soul from the Daytona 675? Not
a bit of it. The engine has been worked on, but nothing like to the extent it would take to mess with the 675’s amazing triple confi guration delivery. Revisions, small that they are, come in the form of a revised camshaft that reduces cam lift slightly
and new pistons that are better suited to the slightly lower revving engine. In fact, the motor is actually stronger to 9,000rpm than the 675 – just where you want a naked bike to excel – and it’s hardly shy above this, pumping out a (claimed) hugely satisfying 107bhp at nearly 12,000rpm and offering crisp, clean delivery on
every throttle opening. What this translates to on the road is a fl exible motor that offers response in almost every gear in almost every situation – whether it be pulling in third out of a hairpin bend and still keeping in touch with other hell-bent riders or riding the bike on the redline. Cost effective So far the linage of the Daytona 675 is clear. Borrowing the frame and the engine, this is bound to be the case, but the legacy of the Speed Triple, beyond that of its looks, is never far away. And that legacy is a very naughty one indeed. Yes, as well as doing a great impression of a utilitarian machine for the masses, suitable for novices and experts
alike, the Street Triple can turn a green stunter into an expert in the space of a
day. As Triumph’s product manager, Simon Warburton puts it, “We anticipate it getting abuse.” The Street Triple makes its Speed Triple brother feel like a lardy old bus as it wheelies with ease from the fi rst two gears, before turning you into a stoppie-meister in the space of a few passes. But even this isn’t the best thing about the Street Triple. No, the fact that it is 10 800 $ (£5,350) is the best thing about it. I can’t see how Triumph has done it for the money – and even Triumph’s bean counters are wondering how they let this one through the books. Margins on the Street Triple are low for everyone – the factory, importers and dealers – so Triumph are hoping that volume will make fi ll the potential black hole where profit once was. And if there’s any justice in the world the Street Triple will sell by the thousands because I can see no better way to commute, scratch or stunt than this.

Suzuki HAYABUSA 2008

Suzuki flew an exuberant European press gang to Rome to unveil a selection of new models, including the updated Hayabusa and the long-awaited huge naked, the B-King, which i reviewed yesterday.

Hayabusa fans have been waiting patiently to see the ol’ bus overhauled, as it’s changed barely a jot since its introduction in 1999. There
are plenty of worthwhile tech upgrades, but those hoping for a radical redesign may be slightly disappointed because the changes are more evolution than revolution.
The styling has been smartly modernised but without making a major departure from the
existing shape or profile. Only the swooping new tail-unit, which has a hint of the classic sportscar about it, catches the eye as markedly different. In essence, the Hayabusa is just as bulbous and curvy as it was before, presumably to retain warpspeed-conducive aerodynamics. And, like those women who describe themselves as ‘curvy’ in dating ads... yes, the ‘Busa is still fat and ugly (in fact, 3kg fatter),
albeit with plenty of personality. And around 200bhp. The new Hayabusa will be priced close to 18.000 U.S. Dollars (9.000 GBP) and will be available from October.

Here are some details about the new unleashed beast:
Exhaust
The most important change from a practical point of view is the new exhaust system, which saves the ‘Busa from Brussels’ scrap yard by meeting Euro 3 emissions rules. The penalty is gargantuan dual silencers, similar to those of the GSX-R1000 K7... bring on the titanium Yoshimura.

Chassis
It’s always handled surprisingly nimbly, but the new Hayabusa has a refined chassis that is lighter and more rigid.

Instruments
The new instrument cluster includes a gear indicator and drive mode indicator.

Aerodynamics
Wind protection is improved by a slightly wider fairing and 15mm-higher screen,
designed to reduce the drag caused by the rider’s arms and legs.

Fuel injection
Updated with Suzuki’s latest dual valve, dual injector setup and the GSX-R1000’s S-DMS (Suzuki Drive Mode Selector) – selectable engine mapping, offering three different types of power delivery.
Forks
The revised, 43mm forks have a ‘Diamond-Like’ titanium carbide coating to minimise
static friction.

Steering damper
It come with a steering damper straight from the fabric. This is a similar electronic item to that on the GSX-R1000.

Rear sub-frame
The old bike’s ally sub-frame didn’t like hard-luggage and exhaust mods, so the new ‘un uses stronger rectangular steel tubing to increase the load-bearing capacity.

Engine
Displacement is up to 1,340cc, with new, lighter pistons and titanium valves. Compression is up to 12.5:1, and cylinder skirts have large ‘U’ cutouts to reduce pumping losses.

Brakes
The brakes, one of the old bike’s few weak points, have been brought up to date with the addition of radialmount, four-piston calipers and smaller (310mm), thicker discs.

Spec Highlights
■ Engine: 4-stroke, inline-four, l/c, DOHC 16v
■ Displacement: 1,340cc
■ Gearbox: six-speed
■ Chassis: Twin-spar aluminium
■ Rake/trail: 24.2°/98mm
■ Wheelbase: 1,485mm
■ Fuel capacity: 21 litres
■ Dry weight: 220kg
■ Peak power: 200bhp

With these specs, this bike will stay at the top for a long time, i reckon. And the looks...it's incredibble. If it wouldn't cost "only" ~ 18000$, I would surely buy one...or two ! But with this price, I'll limit myself to just writing about it.
Dry roads, riders!

Suzuki B-King 2008

After a lot of time spent on the designing board, since 2001, when it was a concept bike, it finally got to the production state for 2008.

What can I say...this is a huge muscle bike which "hides" a 190 BHP Hayabusa engine. It acually looks like a GSXR 600 that received a good dose of highly rated steroids.
The width is simply astounding, and lends a fearsome quota of road-presence. It weighs in at a lardy 235kg, but Suzuki assures that the B-King is designed to handle as well as own the road.

Indeed, former BSB champ John Reynolds helped develop the bike, and he assures that its capability on the track completely contradicts its huge monsterly proportions.

When buying an old, used bike

DEAL OR NO DEAL?
Buying used bikes can save you a stack of cash. But unscrupulous dealers and uncaring owners make it a minefield for the unwary. Use your head, though, and you'll get a good deal.
Being sensible isn't always the best policy in life, but if you're buying a second-hand bike, then it always is. I'm concentrating on buying privately here, but you can adopt the same approach when you're buying from a dealer.
Discipline is the key. Dreaming is not an option, so go about the process with a clear head and don't let your heart interfere with your decisions. Getting a different bike is exciting and it's easy to think you spotted a bargain, rush in and make a hash of it. If you don't know enough about the model you're set on, then ask someone who does, prefferably a close person, who you can trust. Best for you is to take them along with you.
Glaen as much info from the seller as possible before you view the bike. Saying that you're phoning about the bike rather than the specific model will reveal if he's a genuine private seller or a dealer who has loads of bikes to sell. Ask lots of questions. It's you money, after all. You afford to ask questions.
Ask about the reason why he/they are selling it, the bike's condition, mileage and number of previous owners. Ask if it has any faults, a full service history, if it was crashed before, if it has done track days, if it's standard, and if not, what standard parts are available. And find out if you can give the bike a test ride. It's important to give the seller the impression that you're an interested expert who knows their stuff and shouldn't be messed about.
Once you're happy with the answers, then you can go to the seller's home and inspect the motorcycle. Try and do it on daylight, so you can see better if there are any parts damaged, pain scratched etc. And ask them not to run the engine until you get there. At the first glance, not on the motorcycle, but the sellers, size them up. Try to find out if they are genuine, honest sellers or just scammers, just by the way they look. Be wary, if a bike looks very good, I mean brand new paint-job, brand new exhaust etc and still it has a low price, ask a whole lot of questions and be very carefull when you inspect it for any flaws. Usually, when a bike looks very good, sounds great (because it has a brand new exhaust), but it's very cheap is just trying to look like a mega-bargain. But guess what: it rarely is! The scammers prepare the crashed bikes and paint them very nice just to impress you with the exterior. Don't be fooled, be very cautios in a situation like this. I warned you! :)
Then, check all the paperwork and the documents thoroughly. Frame and chassis numbers must match those in the logbook which itself should have a watermark running through it. All certificates and receipts for claimed servicing and repair work should also be checked. It would be better though, that those wouldn't exist, not that they were thrown, but it would rather be a bike in a good condition, with no capital repairs made.

The main thiongs you should inspect when buying a "new" bike are:

- The engine: it is obviously very important to check. If you don't know how to check it, then get a friends that does. Visible signs are smoking and fluid leaks, audible ones are rattles and squeeks. Check how easily it starts and if the fan is working.

- The linkages: Make sure nothing's unduly loose and rattling. Pay particular attention to the swingarm bearings and the headstock.

-Brakes:Check if the disks show signs of wear and tear and if they're warped. Lever action should be smooth, pads shouldn't be worn and scratched.

-Rear suspension:While on the sidestand, hold the bars and give the rear suspension a bounce. It should feel smooth and progressive bith ways, up and down.

-Clutch and gearbox:These can be checked best in the test ride. Just test that it actually works, by checking the pad. :)

-Front suspension:Standing in front of the bike you should give it a good bounce while you grab it by the grips. Same as the rear suspension, it should be smooth and have no flat spots.

-Clocks and dials: Everything must be working and registering acurately. This will require a test ride too.

-Panels:Check for scratches, scrapes, dents and mismatched colours(remember what i told you about scammers).

-Tyres: Estimate how worn are they and how long it will take untill you will change them.Anyway, i suggest that you change the tyres as soon as you have the money to do it, because you never know how the previous rider treated them and you don't want them to fail when you are doing a wheelie or something like that.

-Accessories: Now this is what I was talking about...if the footrests, grips and other accessories are brand new double check them. They may be hiding something. Check the mileage...it could have been clocked.

The last thing you do before walking/riding out the sellers home is the test ride. This last test can tell you more about the bike than any other checkes that you did before on the bike. That, if you have enough experience. If not, well, you'll know better next time you buy an used bike.
I hope this will open you eyes a little when buying a "new" used motorcycle.
Dry roads riders!

BMW K1200R - Sport

Typical, the best spring since the end of the ice ace and I ended up on my back for two weeks - and not in a good "honeymoon" way. To top off the misery, I had a shiny new BMW K1200R Sport (or Arse Port as it's known in the office) gathering dust in the shed, taunting my temporary disability. The German sense of humour has always been dark.
I've had an operation on my perennially dodgy ankle, so while my stiches weeped, all i could do is look at the AC Schnitzer website(top German tuners), scour BMW forums and dream of summer trips away with the big Beemer.
Prior to going under the knife, U'd put bearly 1,000 miles(1600 Km) on the best German missile since the V1. That was enough to learn that, if you wind the 1,157 cc motor up to 10,000rpm it's as scary as a doodlebug homing in on your East End house 60 years ago. Yes, I'm new to this BMW stewardship, and I'm finding old prejudices hard to banish, so expect plenty more war, lederhosen and strudel references over the bext few months. Well, they started it.


My initial weeks of testing the Arse Port,sorry, R Sport, have been great, but I remain puzzled over its actualt existence. I still don't know why it ever emerged from the Bavarian Motor Works, what with it being the middle brother of the fully faired K1200S hyper tourer and the avant-garde naked K1200R muscle bike. The half fairing of the R Sport gives The machine its own little niche, but its existence seems to lie solely in BMW's Teutonic quest to have a thousanddifferent bikes in their range by 2010. The German firm are rattling new bikes out like Messerschmitt 109s in the 1938(see, told you) and the R Sport seems superfluous given the similarities between it and its brothers. But what the hell, for my 140 mile daily round trip, it's right out my 'strasse', aping the flexibility and comfort on the Triumph Speed Triple I ran last year.
So far, I've gone far out of the commuting comfort zone - although the BMW's ability has tempted me to come off the M4 one junction early to sample some of Berkshire's bumpy B-roads. Here, the Beemer's idiosyncratic suspension seems to want a little adjustment and isn't as refined as the motr that powers it. SUporting decent Bridgestone BT-014 rubber (now majorly squared off) the fron suspension doesn't seem to be making the most of it, feeling a little distant as you start to push, while the suspension's stroke at the rear, particulary copression, can upset the machine on the roads tha I greew up on.

But this all gives me somthing to work on, and having spent a fair amount of time on the R Sport's brothers, I feel confident that, with some tweaking here and there, it could be this year's perfect all-rounder.

5 STEPS TO FASTER SAFER RIDING

WHAT HAPPENS NEXT?
Don't try to guess what happens around the corner. Approach every corner ready
to brake or accelerate when you can see.Allow yourself to do that earlier, by entering a corner on a wide line.

BODY POSITIONING
Body positioning is important. You need to be the boss of your bike ready to make it do whatever you want it to. So sit in top of it rather than hanging off trying to get your knee down or be concentrating on getting tucked in like a 125GP racer.

KNEE DOWN OR NOT?
There's absolutely no need to get your knee down. If you do you're either leaning too far off the bike, making it unstable or you're leaning too far over. You win't see Bruce Ansty os John McGuiness here getting their knee down too often at the TT because it doesn't make them any faster.

Now, here are five steps to follow for improving your riding speed and safety.

1

Ride smoother and piece stretches of road together. A sequence of bends should blend into one - this is where road knowledge makes the difference. Adopt the slower in, fast out approach. Use the vanishing point to guide your responses(braking,accelerating and road positioning).

2

A familiar road is the best place to practice getting quicker and more confident with your bike but don't attempt to ride faster without being completely comfortable on your bike. You should know hot it behaves inside out so that nothing surprises you.
3

Roads can be unpredictable so don't push to your limits. you always need a margin for error even if you sre John McGuiness doing a 129mph lap at the TT. Rushing up to everything trying to be the last of the late brakers isn't the answer. A smooth rider is a fast rider and a calm one at that.

4

Use you senses, all of your field of vision to judge space and speed. Don't ride so fast you're rushing along in a blind panic. You should be noticing lost of information about the road ahead, the scenery, the road signs, road markings, that dead badger as well as making the vanishing point your guide.

5

If you're following someone don't get too close and don't actually watch them, their back wheel or anything else. You should be looking through them, almost like you're following a "ghost rider" on the MotoGP Playstation game. Let them guide you but don't let them affect your judgement about where to brake and what line to take.

Dry roads riders!

New Yoshimura Tri-Oval exhaust

JP has been busy in the workshop fitting a Yoshimura Tri-Oval full exhaust system to his long term Suzuki GSX-R1000.
The rolling test bed that is our long term fleet gets updated regularly with new kit to test and rate. JP has been busy replacing the LeoVince titanium exhaust system with a shiney new Yoshimura Tri-Oval stainless steel one.

It is naturally slightly heavier but the advantage of this system is the mid-pipe section can be turned through 180 degrees to affect more top-end or more mid-range power.

Dainese buys AGV helmets

Well, it makes some kind of sense. Dainese lids have never been too popular and Dainese rider Valentino Rossi rides an AGV. And both firms are Italian.


AGV importers told that it wouldn't make a big difference in terms of importing and distribution but that it would probably be good for AGV to be with a company like Dainese, which was interested in the product and its history rather than just AGV as a business proposition.
Here's a bit of the press blurb:

"On July 30, CEO of the eponymous Vicenza-based leader in the production of dynamic
sportswear and safety gear Lino Dainese placed his signature to a very important
agreement for the sports international market.
Dainese S.p.a. is now purchasing AGV S.p.a., the legendary Italian name in the design
and construction of motorcycle helmets for both sports competition and amateur use. The
new purchase provides enormous satisfaction and brings the ownership of the helmet
producer sold to the Belgian Imag Group in 2002 back into Italian hands.
The operation assumes strategic importance for Dainese and substantially increases its
share of the international helmet market."

Valentino Rossi has trouble with taxes

Reports in the Italian press says that top MotoGP star is being quizzed about 60 milion euros undeclared revenues.

Valentino Rossi may be fast enough to be multiple-times MotoGP champion, but he can't outrun the taxman. Italy's biggest newspapers are reporting that the 'Moto Genius' is in trouble for allegedly dodging 60 million euros worth of taxes. Phwoar!

According to La Stampa and Corriere della Sera, the evasions began in 2000 when he officially moved to the UK. This meant he no longer paid taxes in Italy, but he also made the most of the UK's 'resident but not domiciled' laws by declaring only what he earned on our shores (peanuts, if those). So all the lucrative sponsorship deals and the millions made from his Yamaha contract were, allegedly of course, tax-free. Allegedly again, profits from these went straight into companies set up by Rossi's tax advisors in Dublin, London and in other countries to put the taxman off his trail.

If Rossi's found guilty of tax evasion on such a humongous scale, the punishment's a hefty prison sentence. And there were we thinking he'd moved to Blighty for the weather!

HOW GOOD ARE THREE WHEELS ?

--> PIAGGIO MP3

There's been a rash of the new three-wheeled vehicles appearing of late, some promissing bilke-like thrills with extra safety. Now the question is "do high-tech three-wheelers have a future in superbiking? "

First, Piaggio's MP3 and Fuoco, now the Can-Am Spyder, and even Harley Davidson is rumored to work on some sort of three-wheeler. So, is this the future? Are three-wheelers going to sate the safetycrats who're out to kill off motorcycles once and for all, and prove a viable new route for bikers?
In terms of safety, there's no doubt a three-wheeler is more stable than a proper bike. You can even slide an MP3's twin front wheels without falling off, while the Spyder takes as much effort to crash as a car.

CAN-AM SPYDER -->


But it's not that simple.For a start, none of these are going to tempt bike riders in significant numbers. The scooters are too heavy and slow and the MP3 technology won't easily translate to higher performance bikes anyway, as is upsets the weight distribution and slows the steering too much. As for the Spyder, it's too wide, slow and car-like, for all it's funky looks, to make real inroads into the bike world. Already riders' groups the BMF and MAG have given it the cold-shoulder as its drivers' needs simply aren't the same as bike riders', so it wouldn't be possible for a campaign to inlcude it and bikers together. And it's not allowed in bike parking bays, bus lanes and the like.
The Spyder, as its number of wheeles suggests, is half way between a bike and a carl a step up for four-wheeler fans in terms of excitement while addressing some of their dafety concerns, but it's a step down for bike riders.

Why then are these three-wheelers making an appearance now? It's simply another facet of the oncreasing diversity in "leisure-related" vehicles which has been going on for the last decade. There are more models of bikes, in more categories, available now than ever. A dozen years ado, there were barely any big naked bikes around, yet now there are hordes of them. Car manufacturers are constantly looking for new niches too, so it was inevitable that more than one manufacturer would think about a different number of wheels.
The Piaggio-Gilera concept will catch on in the scooter sector because it offers more safety without compromising the basic scooter appeal os traffic manoeuvrability. But cars cause jams, not bust them, so a car-width three-wheeler offers nothing there, and less in other respects to bike riders, so it will only be a curiosity.

DIY (do it yourself) clutch replacement

Has your motorcycle's clutch started slipping or grabbing? Don't panic and don't resign yourself to leaving you bike at the dealer for a week. You can change your clutch plates yourself with a few tools and the necessary parts.

Most motorcycle riders don't think about their bike's clutch at all. Sure they use it every time they ride. They may even do the right thing by adjusting and lubricating the motorcycle's clutch cable occasionally. But really think about the clutch? Never - that is until it starts to get cranky and becomes grabby, or just gets lazy and starts to slip. Replacing the plates, the usual villans in this scenario, and perhaps the clutch springs is easy and takes perhaps an hour on most bikes once you have the necessry parts and tools. I offer this run-though on a Virago 750 to inspire those who are unsure of the process. The process is typical of most Japanese motorcycles, a bit different than a Harley, and much different than with a dry clutch, such as you might find in a BMW or Moto Guzzi.

1. Gather What You'll Need

Although you can often get away with only replacing the clutch's fiber plates, we usually replace all the plates and springs to assure that everything is within specs.

After gathering all the parts, any mechanic - even a novice - can replace a clutch in about an hour. The tools required to replace the clutch in the Virago 750 were: 10mm, 14mm, and 17mm sockets; a 5mm allen socket; 4- and 6-inch extensions (although the 6-incher will do); a ratchet; a torque wrench; a 14mm wrench; a big flathead screwdriver (a technical term); and gasket sealer. Of course you also need a shop manual, some clean rags, refreshments and a clean place to work. Music is nice, too.

2. Open Up the Patient

Start by leaning the bike away from the clutch side, so the oil will stay put when you get the clutch cover off. (If you're replacing the clutch after it has failed, you should change the oil and filter - since they're most likely contaminated with clutch-plate particles. This may seem like a good time to change the oil if you need to do do anyway, but you might want to wait a couple hundred miles and do it when the clutch plates have broken in and shed their initial friction material.)
To get to the 750 Virago's clutch cover, we needed to remove the brake light spring, the brake pedal (note the alignment marks on the pedal and spindle to simplify replacement), and the right peg mount bracket.

Next, using a 5mm allen, loosen all of the clutch cover bolts in a crisscross pattern. Pick a point on the cover (mark it with a grease pencil if you're forgetful), remove the bolts one at a time in either a clockwise or counter-clockwise direction, and place them in order on a clean shop rag.

Since the length of the bolts in the Virago clutch cover varies by almost one-half inch, trying to figure out which bolt belongs in which hole is time-consuming and terribly dull. ("Nope, doesn't fit there. Not here either. Dang. Only 12 more to go...") If you are afraid they might get accidentally scattered, set them on a strip on duct tape to hold them in order.

3. Peel Back the Skin

To remove the case cover on the Virago, remove the oil filter cover, then locate the notch between the clutch cover and the engine case (slightly in front of the oil filter cover). Gently pry the cover free of the case with a screwdriver. (Although some people may say you can save the gasket if you remove the cover carefully, we recommend buying a new one to assure an oil-tight reassembly.)

4. Get to the Plates

Next, remove the clutch pressure plate bolts with a 10mm socket.
Take note of any alignment marks on the clutch pressure plate and basket that may need to be matched on reassembly, or make your own with a marker.
5. Relieve the Pressure

Remove the pressure plate (the top plate on the clutch assembly) and set it aside. The throw-out bearing in the center of the basket may fall out as the pressure plate is removed. (You should set a couple of rags beneath the clutch to catch it so it doesn't get damaged bouncing on the shop floor.) If it does, check for alignment marks and place it back in position.

Next, using the tips of your fingers, or a pair of curved picks, remove the clutch plates one at a time and stack them in exactly the same order. Note the plate order for installation. Incorrectly stacked plates can cause premature clutch failure.

6. Neatness Counts.

The importance of how carefully parts must be set aside can't be overstated. Getting all the components disassembled and organized in order is extremely important so that you know how everything goes back together. It also allows you to see where trouble has developed.
Here, the full set of clutch plates, both the friction plates and the metal plates, are zip-tied together to maintain their order, prior to inspection.

7. Order Counts Too

If fasteners are arranged neatly and logically, reassembly of the clutch pack and covers will be much easier for novices and experts alike. If you have followed the suggestions for arranging the fasteners you removed back in Step 2, this should go smoothly.

8. Check It Out

While the clutch is apart, inspect the clutch basket's inner and outer hubs for wear.
If any notches or grooves are visible in the fingers or splines of the clutch basket, the basket probably needs to be replaced. Consult your shop manual or local mechanic for information on how to remove the basket's hubs. Remember, installing a new clutch into a worn basket may result in abrupt clutch engagement or clutch chatter.
If you don't plan on replacing the steel plates along with the fiber ones, check the steel plates for any signs of wear -- such as discoloration or scoring. Measure the steel plates' thickness to make sure the plates are within suggested tolerances. Make sure the plates are not warped by placing them on plate glass. If any of the plates do not lay flush to the surface, or can be rocked in any direction, replace the plates as a set.
Because we hate doing the same job twice, we chose to replace the steel plates even though the stockers showed no signs of wear.

9. Come Together

Before assembling the new clutch pack, soak the fiber plates in fresh oil for five to 10 minutes.
When sliding the plates into the clutch basket, be sure to arrange fiber and steel plates in exactly the same order as the old clutch pack. If you are unsure, the innermost and outermost plates are usually fiber -- but check your shop manual before proceeding.
The steel plates are usually made of stamped metal, with one rounded edge and one sharp edge. Some mechanics say to make sure the steel plates are installed with the sharp edge facing the pressure plate, or excessive outer hub wear may result. Barnett says it doesn't matter if the sharp edges face in or out, but all of the steel plates must be installed facing the same way.

10. Torque Talk
Place the pressure plate over the clutch pack. Install the springs into the pressure plate and screw the bolts in until snug. Be sure to install the springs and bolts and tighten them gradually in a crisscross pattern for even pressure on the plate. Using a torque wrench, tighten the bolts -- again in a crisscross pattern -- to the shop manual's specified torque (5.8 foot pounds in the case of our Virago). While some people may proclaim with pride that they never use a torque wrench, we've found that properly torqued assemblies (clutch and otherwise) fail much less frequently.
Again, although the original-equipment springs showed no signs of wear and exceeded the 40.2mm minimum-length specification, we chose to replace them with Barnett springs. While the Barnett springs are stiffer and require a slightly firmer pull at the lever, the company says that the additional tension provided by the springs helps make engagement of the Kevlar plates more progressive.

11. OK, Strip!
Clean off any remnants of the old gasket with a knife or gasket scraper. Be careful not to score the sealing surface. Chemical strippers, like naval jelly, can help in particularly tough cases, but be careful to keep these chemicals away from all painted parts. Make sure all gasket pieces are removed from both surfaces.
Clean the mounting surfaces with a solvent, such as contact cleaner, to make sure no oily residue remains to interfere with gasket adhesion.

12. All Together Now

Apply a thin coat of gasket sealant to both gasket mounting surfaces. If you are unsure of where to apply the sealant, look at the shape of the gasket itself.
I've found that pliable, non-hardening sealant works best on covers like the clutch cover. After allowing the sealant to skin over for a couple of minutes, place the new gasket in position on the engine case. The sealant should hold the gasket in position. Make sure the dowel pins in the case (if any) are in place before mounting the cover.

Reinstall the clutch cover bolts in the same order that they were removed, but do not tighten more than finger-tight. Once all the bolts are installed, torque them to the factory specs in a crisscross pattern. Finally, install the footpeg bracket, the brake pedal (don't forget the alignment marks), and the brake light spring. Let the bike sit for an hour or so, to allow the gasket sealant to set, before starting the engine.

Your new clutch will most likely engage in a slightly different lever position, and you may have to adjust the slsck in the cable to adapt to this. But you'll also notice it engages much more positively than the cranky old clutch you removed.

Since the new clutch will shed more friction material initially, change the oil after a few hundred miles.

HOW MUCH CLUTCH?

This is a real "how long is a piece of string?" question. A clutch can last up to 100,000 miles (160,000 km) or more with gentle use an correct adjustments. But a ham-fisted rider can destroy a new one in a few minutes.
If your clutch is ok, don't replace it. The firste sign of wear can be if it becomes grabby - that can be reson enough to replace it. And if it starts to slip (you'll notice it first when you give the bike a big handfull of revs in a high gear), then it's definitely time for a new clutch.
As for "do it yourself" replacement, it's a medium-difficulty job. If you do it, consider replacing the springs as well as both sets of plates (friction and metal). Genuine ones are better than replicas, but cost more too - lots of people use quality pattern parts such as EBC with no problem. You'll need to drop the oil out, remove the side casing and pay attention to how everything comes apart so that you'll be able to put it back again. Everyone says that plates are all the same size but I'd suggest to keep the old ones in the order you remove them as there can be subtle differences. And you can always use them as refference is needed.

I will publish an article about how to change your clutch yourselves in a few days. I am still working on it. Peace!