2008 Yamaha YZF R6

Recently I have made a comparison between the old and the new R6...The 2007 R6 was better...well, that cannot be true anymore. The 2008 brother of the R6 is way better than his older brothers.

Some say that this is the best middleweight motorcycle ever...but every man with his taste, and every man has the right to opinnion.
Personally, I love this motorcycle. Anytime, I would get a loan for buying this brand new 2008 R6. The looks are astonishing...and the technical details and features...well, it just leaves you breathless. I'll just let you decide this for yourself...is it or is it not the best middleweight motorcycle? Later on, I will post some reviews about the R6's rivals.

Key Features:
Light, powerful and bristling with knowledge gained from years of racing, the YZF-R6 is the most advanced production 600cc motorcycle Yamaha—or anybody else—has ever built.
The YZF-R6 was the first production motorcycle with a fly-by-wire throttle system—for flawless response under all conditions.
YCC-I, Yamaha Chip Controlled Intake, introduced in 2007 on the R1, is now used on the R6 to vary intake tract length for excellent cylinder filling and a broader powerband. On the higher-revving R6, its benefits are even more pronounced.
Slipper-type back torque-limiting clutch greatly facilitates braking/downshifting from high speed.

New for 2008:
Over 50 friction-reducing strategies have been employed inside the engine, including the use of wider crank bearings.
Upgraded fuel injection mapping for the YCC-T dual-injector system complements the higher compression ratio for great throttle response and reduced engine braking.
A magnesium subframe removes weight from the rear of the motorcycle for increased mass centralization.
All-new frame takes handling to the next level, allowing more precise turn-in, greater corner speed, and tighter exits. Thicker headpipe-headstock and swingarm pivot area walls, and elimination of the frame crossmember, help achieve perfect balance.
New swingarm has internal ribs added, and extruded section is now forged to work with the new frame.
Revised outer fork tubes, a new lower triple clamp, and increased fork offset provide highly tactile front-end feedback.
Moving the rider and bars forward and slightly lower enhances braking and turn-in performance. Clip-ons are also lower and re-angled.
Front discs are 310 x 5mm instead of 4.5mm for increased cooling qualities.
Increased fork height adjustability and rear ride-height adjustment range accommodate a greater range of riders and tires.
Revised bodywork results in even greater aerodynamic efficiency.

Engine:
YCCT—Yamaha Chip Controlled Throttle—uses a powerful ECU and multiple sensors to provide perfect, smooth engine response and optimal power whenever the throttle is twisted under all conditions.
Twin-injector fuel injection: shower-type injectors above each intake funnel help achieve optimum fuel atomization at high rpm.
Back torque-limiting slipper clutch greatly facilitates braking and downshifting from high speed. Close-ratio six-speed transmission delivers seamless power and maximum acceleration.
GP-style titanium muffler contributes to mass centralization and contains EXUP for a broad powerband, spot-on injection and emissions compliance.
Linerless, direct-plated ceramic-composite cylinder bores mean greater heat dissipation for consistent power delivery and reduced friction.
Cool magnesium valve and engine covers are light and stylish.
Direct-ignition coils, dual-electrode spark plugs and high-output magneto deliver extremely accurate, reliable firing.

Chassis/Suspension:
Deltabox aluminum frame incorporates GP thinking in terms of engine positioning and rigidity for the ultimate in 600-class handling.
Light, Controlled-Fill swingarm pivots high in the frame, for increased anti-squat effect and mid-corner stability. TZ-type chain adjusters ease rear tire changes.
Four-way adjustable (preload, high-speed compression, low-speed compression and rebound damping) inverted fork with 41mm tubes increases freedom in setting up for street or track use; soak up the bumps and resist bottoming when braking.
Four-way adjustable (preload, high-speed compression, low-speed compression and rebound damping) piggyback rear shock delivers exceptional rear wheel tracking and stability.
Dual 310mm front disc brakes use forged one-piece radial-mount calipers and radial-pump front master cylinder with adjustable lever for astounding braking power and feel.
The casting technique for the five-spoke 17-inch wheels makes the rims light and strong, not to mention wickedly cool-looking.

Additional Features:
Quick-detach license plate holder and rear turn signal mount makes prepping for track days or racing a snap.
Built-in lap timer is controlled by a right handlebar switch.
Multifunction digital and analog instrumentation features: programmable shift light, digital speedometer, analog tachometer, dual tripmeters with miles-on-reserve function, odometer, water temp gauge and lights for neutral, high beam, low fuel and turn signals.

Technical specs :

Engine
Type :599cc liquid-cooled inline 4-cylinder; DOHC, 16 titanium valves

Bore x Stroke: 67.0 x 42.5mm

Compression Ratio: 13.1:1

Carburation: Fuel Injection with YCC-T and YCC-I

Ignition: TCI

Transmission: 6-speed w/multi-plate slipper clutch

Final Drive: #525 O-ring chain


Chassis
Suspension/Front: 41mm inverted fork; 4-way adjustable, 4.7-in travel

Suspension/Rear: Single shock; 4-way adjustable, 4.7-in travel

Brakes/Front: Dual 310mm floating disc; radial-mount 4-piston calipers

Brakes/Rear: 220mm disc; single-piston caliper

Tires/Front: 120/70-ZR17

Tires/Rear: 180/55-ZR17


Dimensions
Length: 80.3 in

Width: 27.6 in

Height: 43.3 in

Seat Height: 33.5 in

Wheelbase: 54.3 in

Rake (Caster Angle): 24°

Trail: 3.8 in

Fuel Capacity:4.6 gal

Dry Weight : 366 lb

2008 Kawasaki Concours 14

Tour master motorcycle

If the ZX-14 sportbike is the rebellious teenager in Kawasaki's lineup, then the new Concours 14 tourer is its older, wiser sibling who still wants to have fun. They share the same potent powertrain, but the Concours isn't some ZX-14 with saddlebags. Underneath the faceted body panels are high-tech engine mods that smooth out the ZX's barnstorming personality. On the sperpentine roads it ws tested on, the motorcycle's sharp reflexes edged it towards the "sport" side of touring. Neat features include a KI-PASS wireless transponder that automatically starts your motorcycle and electronic tyre-pressure sensors that alert you to problems of a rubber nature. More important, the Concours 14 is the most powerfull motorcycle in its class. Dyno performance fanatics will respect the motorcycle's 156 HP inline four. Even if this motorcycle is the most powerfull in its class, it comes with the lowest price tag, its price being just 12,899 $. For a powerfull tourer like this one...it's a bargain.

The full feature map :

Key Features:
- Most powerful production sport tourer
- Next generation monocoque aluminum frame
- Comfortable long distance riding position
- Low-maintenance shaft drive

1,352cc Four-Cylinder, DOHC Engine with Variable Valve Timing (VVT)
- Tuned to provide smooth power across a wide rev range
- Variable valve timing improves the engine’s flexibility and efficiency by altering the camshaft profiles to suit different rpm ranges
- Carefully planned engine design keeps it compact and narrow
- Chrome composite plated aluminum cylinder bores are lightweight, durable, and quickly carry heat away from the combustion chamber and piston for supreme durability under high loads

Gear-Driven Dual Engine Balancers
- Already in perfect primary balance, dual secondary balancers virtually eliminate unwanted vibrations for extremely smooth engine operation and enhanced rider comfort

Ram Air Induction
- Ram Air ducts produce a straighter path to the airbox for maximum intake efficiency
- This system takes cooler, high-pressure air, guides it through the air filter and into the engine for maximum power output

Digital Fuel Injection
- Throttle bodies are fitted with sub-throttle valves that are controlled by the ECU to provide smooth, precise response similar to constant velocity carburetors
- 32-bit electronic control unit works with dual throttle valve system to further enhance throttle response and control
- A digital computer feeds the engine exactly the amount of fuel it needs for cleaner emissions and maximum fuel economy

Digital Ignition
- Digital Timing Advance enhances low-and mid-range power
- Four individual spark plug-mounted ignition coils fire each spark plug independently to achieve the optimum timing for that cylinder at that instant
- ECU includes an idle speed control system for easier starting and warm-up

Radial Pump Clutch Master Cylinder
- Hydraulic clutch features a radial-pump clutch master cylinder for smooth and precise clutch engagement

Monocoque Aluminum Frame
- The frame is a hollow aluminum box that arches over the engine from the steering head to the swing arm pivot; it is narrow, strong, rigid and very light
- Engine is rigidly mounted to increase the monocoque’s torsional rigidity. Plus using the engine as a stressed frame member decreases the frame’s weight by approximately four pounds
- Engine positioned forward in the frame, wheelbase and front/rear weight balance were carefully designed to achieve high-speed stability and responsive handling
- Massive steering head casting contributes to frame rigidity


Radial-mount Petal-type Front Disc Brakes
- Radial mounted four-piston front brake calipers. Instead of mounting the calipers with threaded tabs cast near the top of the caliper, the radial design utilizes integrated mounting points at both the top and bottom of the caliper, with the mounting bolts inserted through the rear of the caliper instead of the side/front. This makes the caliper more rigid, which improves brake feel over a wider range of operation
- A separate brake pad is used for each piston. One large pad can deform with the heat generated by hard braking, resulting in a loss of brake feel at the lever. Individual pads provide increased cooling efficiency and can absorb more heat without deforming so they maintain consistent brake feel under extreme conditions
- Petal design front and rear brake rotors provide enhanced cooling and better warp resistance
- Radial-pump front brake master cylinder improves brake performance and lever feel

Tetra-Lever Shaft Drive
- Unique four-link design significantly reduces driveline lash during sport riding and provides smooth acceleration when exploiting the engine’s incredible power output
- Virtually maintenance free, the Tetra Lever system dramatically reduces routine maintenance requirements

Antilock Brake System (Concours™ 14 ABS)
- ABS brakes boost safety and rider confidence in low-traction conditions and may enhance evasive maneuvering in an emergency

Bodywork Optimized for Sport Touring
- Fairing design promotes smooth airflow around the rider and passenger with minimal buffeting
- Integrated, locking hard luggage offers plenty of storage, without disrupting the Concours 14’s style or performance
- Electrically adjustable vented windscreen
- Large, comfortable seat offers long-distance comfort for both rider and passenger
- Glove box mounted on the fuel tank cover

Full Instrumentation
- Easy to read speedometer and tachometer
- Multi-function LCD digital display includes an odometer, two trip meters, fuel gauge, gear position indicator and a clock
- A CAN (Controller Area Network) interface between the gauges uses fewer wires while allowing a greater volume of information, such as estimated fuel mileage, to be exchanged
- Kawasaki Electronic Authorization system (KI-PASS)
- Tire pressure sensors

With all these being said, it has more features than some full-option road cars. This cool motorcycle is really something!

The technical specifications look like this:

Engine Type : Four-stroke, liquid-cooled, DOHC, four valve per cylinder, inline-four with VVT

Displacement : 1,352 cc

Bore and Stroke : 84.0 x 61.0mm

Maximum Torque : 100.3 LbFt @ 6,200 rpm

Compression Ratio : 10.7:1

Fuel Ignition : Digital Fuel Injection

Ignition : TCBI with Digital Advance

Transmission : 6-Speed

Final Drive : Tetra-Lever shaft drive

Rake/Trail : 26.1 degrees/4.4 in.

Front Tire Size : 120/70 ZR-17

Rear Tire Size : 190/50 ZR-17

Front Suspension / wheel travel : Inverted, telescopic fork / 4.4 in.

Rear Suspension / wheel travel : Tetra-Lever / 5.4 in.

Front Brake Type : Dual floating 310mm petal discs with four-piston calipers

Rear Brake Type : Single 270mm petal disc

Fuel Tank Capacity : 5.8 gal.

Seat Height : 32.1"

Dry Weight : 606 lbs. 615 lbs. (ABS model)

Wheelbase : 59.8

Overal Length : 89.4 in.

Overall height windscreen min / windscreen max : 50.8/55.3

Overall width at handlebars / at saddlebags : 30.7 in. / 39.3 in.

Very cool touring motorcycle...and the price is really fit for it. Whoever likes touring motorcycles, get a motorcycle loan or just buy it. It is worth it!

Dry roads, riders!

Electric scooters

I've been surfing the internet and I came across multiple sites about these electric scooters. I just wanted to see what's about them and I did some research. If you are interested, here is part of what I gathered:
An electric scooter is a vehicle that runs on battery. The battery needs recharging after a few hours of use. Electric scooters have been designed to quickly move from one place to another with quick maneuvering capabilities.
Because of their lightweight structure, electric scooters are easy to ride and can move quickly even in traffic jams. This makes them a potential vehicle in big cities. Kids and teenagers can use them to travel from school to home.
Many electric scooter models have been developed that can be folded and carried just like bags. Since their basic system is really simple, an electric scooter is lightweight and easy to carry away. This is makes it possible to carry them with you to other cities as well. If you love traveling you can carry them to your vacation and use it there.
The most important think about this "electric scooter" thing is that it can help handicaped persons. Instead of using a wheelchair, on which they cannot travel long distances, they may use a specially designed electric scooter, that may come in a three or four-wheel form. This may really come in handy for somebody in a position like that.
But the bad thing about these scooters is the speed. It is no match for the gas-powered ones, but it makes no noise(which for me is a down-step, because i love to hear the engine roar) and it does not pollute in any way...well, that's good, but still...i'll pass for this thing.

Still, this blog is not for me, but for the people who read it...and that mean you, too. Here are some of the top manufacturers of electric scooters:
- Razor Electric scooter;

- Currie Technologies Electric Scooter;

- Xtreme electric scooters;

I will give detailes about anything here only if someone requires it by posting a comment.
Apart from these, there are many small brands of electric scooters selling on the Internet. If you are planning to buy one read carefully the features and what exactly do you get when you buy the electric scooter.
Peace!

2007 Yamaha V-Max

Simply awsome. This is an awesome motorcycle (musclebike). Not only because it looks great, but more because it's the only motorcycle that has a 16 valve V-4 engine, and a powerfull one, too.
Here are some features of this motorcycle
Key Features:
Same as always V-Max's rumbly, high-revving muscle-car-inspired 1198cc V-4 engine is in a class by itself.
The original power cruiser has a unique style, stance and look that’s all its own as well as an international fan base.
Bulletproof shaft drive and heavy-duty components throughout back up the V-Max's larger than life personality.
Engine:
1198cc liquid-cooled, DOHC 16-valve 70-degree V-4 engine has no equal in its class, pumping out tremendous, hard-hitting power to make it the ultimate quick-accelerating, high-performance king.
Patented Yamaha “V-Boost” induction, a power-boosting variable intake system, force feeds massive quantities of fuel into the cylinders via a servo-controlled butterfly valve at 6000 RPM and above.
Four 35mm Mikuni downdraft carburetors ensure seamless, lightning-quick throttle response.
Specially designed high-lift camshafts ensure ample acceleration at lower rpm along with legendary top-end for a broad, deep powerband.
Specially tempered crankshaft and connecting rods provide excellent durability.
Smooth-shifting, five-speed transmission puts that massive powerband to the pavement with one purpose: maximum acceleration all the way to redline.
Hydraulically activated diaphragm-type clutch delivers precise clutch performance with lighter pull.
Low-maintenance shaft drive provides ultra-smooth performance that’s virtually lash-free.
Chassis/Suspension:
Low-slung styling keeps the seat low for great handling, confident low-speed maneuvering and V-Max’s unique look.
Stout, 43mm front fork features 5.5 inches of travel and air-assist adjustability for fine-tuning the ride.
Dual rear shocks feature four-position rebound damping and five-way spring-preload adjustability.
Fat, 6-inch rear tire mounted on solid disc wheel hooks up with the asphalt for maximum traction.
Dual 298mm front discs with four-piston calipers and a single 282mm rear disc brakes reel the V-Max in.
Additional Features:
Underseat fuel tank helps balance the bike’s weight and provides space for large-capacity airbox located above the carburetors.
Fuel reserve switch is conveniently positioned on the handlebars.
Fork seal guards help prevent rock and debris damage to fork sliders.
Trick-looking, onyx w/shift red flames finish on fuel tank combine with massive-looking faux air intake scoops to give the V-Max the perfect “street rod” look and feel.
Wide, thickly padded seat and plush passenger saddle with grabrail adds exceptional comfort to the incomparable excitement.
Handy centerstand for convenience and service accessibility.
Compact speedometer unit keeps cockpit clean and simple and offers easy readability of tripmeter/odometer and neutral, high beam, turn signal, low oil and low fuel indicator lights.
To make this review complete, I posted some detailed tehnical specifications
Engine
Type : 1198cc, liquid-cooled, DOHC 16-valve 70-degree V-4

Bore x Stroke : 76mm x 66mm

Compression Ratio : 10.5:1

Carburation : (4) 35mm Mikuni downdraft-type w/V-Boost

Ignition : Digital TCI

Transmission : 5-speed w/hydraulically activated diaphragm-type clutch

Final Drive : Shaft (personally, I think that shaft drive motorcycles are way better than the ones driven by chain, and safer. You will never get a shaft hit you when it snaps...because it doesn't snap. And the torque and power are way better transmitted through a shaft than through a chain. Not to mention the engine-braking, which works divine with a shaft. It's just better, for some types of motorcycles.i.e: the one I am writing about right now )


Chassis
Suspension/Front : 43mm Telescopic fork w/air-assist; 5.5" travel

Suspension/Rear : Dual shocks w/adjustable spring preload and rebound damping; 3.9" travel

Brakes/Front : Dual 298mm discs

Brakes/Rear : 282mm disc

Tires/Front : 110/90-V18

Tires/Rear : 150/90-V15


Dimensions
Length : 90.6" (~230 cm)

Width : 31.3" (~79 cm)

Height : 45.7" (~116 cm)

Seat Height : 30.1" (~76 cm)

Wheelbase : 62.6" (~159 cm)

Ground Clearance : 5.7" (~14 cm)

Dry Weight : 580 lb.(~263 Kg )

Fuel Capacity : 4.0 gal. (~ 18 liters)

This is an incredible motorcycle that I would love to own some day...when I'll be old and wise...Best wishes guys...and...
Dry roads, riders!

Cool tips to keep your bike good lookin'

Cleaning your motorcycle can be a hassle, but with periodic care you can make it easy on yourself. Depending on where you ride and how often will determine how frequently you need to clean it. A clean spport motorcycle or a chopper will turn more heads than a dirty one, but a dirty, muddy dirt bike will look very naturan when it's covered with mud, even if that is not good for the bike. Try to keep your motorcycle clean.

1.Wash your motorcycle in a shaded area so as not to let the soap dry too quickly and leave a film.
2. Make sure the engine has cooled down before washing with soap and water. When using a hose don't spray too hard around the engine so you won't short out the ignition system. If you have an air compressor use the air gun to blow out as much moister around the engine area as possible to dry it out.
3. Regular car soap will work best along with a wash mitt that will allow you to get around the areas of the bike. When you want to get to the really small nooks and crannies use a soft bristle toothbrush.
4. Wax all painted areas of the bike, there are many waxes available on the market to use, I just stick to the basic turtle wax, it's been around for years, but you might like to shop around.
5. Using an SOS pad can clean up minor rust on chrome pieces. Make sure you put a coat of wax after clearing.
6. Depending on your seat style you may want to use a leather treatment or possibly Armor All on the vinyl seat. Just remember it's going to be a little slick when you get done.
7. If your bike has a chain make sure you lubricate it properly after washing and check for any other areas that might need to be re-lubricated.
8. If you have a nice motorcycle cover then use it to save the hassle of cleaning so often. If not, at least try to store it in a dry place, a garrage would be perfect.
Dry roads, riders...and keep'em clean!

Yamaha YZF-R6

The '99 R6
As I promissed, nou you are about to read a compare between the 2003 R6 and the 2007 one.
Technology has been heaped upon the 600cc class late as the manufacturers desperately try to outdo each other on the race track. But this has affected the bikes we ride on the road, too.
From the moment you first set eyes on the two bikes, it’s instantly apparent that they couldn’t be more different. The soft, almost friendly curves of the ’03 machine
contrast against the aggressive angles of the latest model.
The weather had hardly been kind to the bikers for this test. So much for global warming, it’s more like global downpour! Not the kind of thing you want for pushing sports 600s to their limits... So you may be wondering why they didn’t bother waiting for a sunnier day. In fact, bearing in mind they’ve tested all and indeed owned most types of R6 over the years, riding them mainly in blistering sunshine on some of the best tracks in the country, was there even any point in riding them again? Yet the real-world weather turned out to be a god-send, showing up one bike as a much better road machine than the other. The flatlands of East Anglia are a bleak place to be when the rain clouds beckon, but offer just about every type of road imaginable. From wellsurfaced sweeping bends to bumpy hairpins, the Fen roads offer variety, not much traffic and plenty of cow shit.

Having spent a lot of time in the saddle of the new R6 on various tests, at first the older bike feels, well, old. The riding position is far less focused than the head-down, ass-up posture of the newer bike, although the older bike still feels lithe and agile on the move. Size isn’t everything The newer machine does feel tiny, but then the ‘03 bike hardly feels big. It has a slender feel to it. It’s fairly narrow between the knees, yet manages not to feel as cramped as its younger brother and offers better wind protection too, making it the bike we all wanted to be on for the run back down the A1. Less than grippy roads can reveal a lot about a motorbike. In the past, racers have criticised the ’03 R6 for being a little lazy steering, a bit slow to turn. Having raced a 2005 model, anyone would be inclined to agree with
them, but then only when you’re riding at a pace that would spell either prison or hospital on the road. What it does create is a bike with superb feel and neutrality on the road, and that inspires calm and confidence mid-turn. Rapier sharp By contrast, the newer machine’s inclination to turn up its own pointy ass at the merest whiff of a handlebar input makes it a rapier-sharp track tool for smooth, flowing corners, but something of a liability on a greasy wet hairpin – which during the test only served to make them feel on edge. Suspension has come a long way in the past few years, but again this is another area where the newer machine needs
adjustment for the roads. While it works well on the racetrack, it’s way too stiff as standard here. The slightly softer set-up of the ’03 machine suits the road perfectly and to my mind, that’s how it should be. Surely we should adjust bikes for the track, not the other way round? The cliché ‘racer on the road’ really couldn’t
be more fitting for the latest R6. It has all the ingredients to make a superb track or race bike, although much of its focus has compromised its ability on the road. The engine seems to rev forever, and the resultant exhaust note is pure audio heaven. Working the slick gearbox to keep it screaming above a fairly flat bottom end
makes you feel like a Supersport god. That is until the rider on the ’03 machine comes past on a fatter wave of midrange torque, wondering what all the noise was about. The newer bike may have more top-end power, but on the road, midrange is king.

The final analysis?
The 2007 R6
Make no mistake, the new R6 is a great bike. That’s why I’ve recently started rasing some hard earned cash for one. The thing is, I'd buy it to go racing with and
given the choice for the road, it would be the earlier model every time – especially with some great deals to be had on new 2005 models.
But then, that’s just me. If you’re the kind of rider who lives for trackdays and simply has to have the latest of everything, then the most recent version of the R6
won’t disappoint. Be honest with yourself about where and how you’ll be doing most of
your riding, and book test rides on each.
Dry roads, riders!

Kick-Ass Kawasaki ZX9R

HI guys! A cousin of mine owns a beasty bike. Recently he repainted the whole thing and amde it look really awesome. When I've ridden it last year...well, it was fast(250 kmph on the autobahn in Germany - rider and pasanger and it would have gone faster...). But since then, he changed the seat, replaced it with a lighter, single person one, bolted on a racing clutch and gearbox (and that is very cool, because stock Kawa gearboxes are known as shitty - personally I never experienced problems on a Kawasaki but, that's what I've heard. Any comments are welcome. Thanks). If last year was fast...I guess now its REALLY FAST. Well it can't be as fast as the 2008 Suzuki Hayabusa but the price differs too...a lot.
The bike is now a fast bike, but with a few more improvements,and a turbo or something it will be a superbike. I hope he will ungrade it because I really love that bike and I would like to write about it again in the future, with better stats.
In the pictures, I have hidden the license plate(S is from SUPERBIKE)...because this can be advertising for him, but it can be negative too, and I don't want to do that.
Anyway, God bless...Germany. For its "no speed limit" signs on the highway. Those parts are my favorite.
Anyway, I think the Kawasaki ZX9r is cool, this one, even cooler. But any opinnions are welcome.
Dry roads, riders!
Peace!

YAMAHA YZF-R6 HISTORY

When Yamaha introduced the YZF-R6 in 1999, it was a very big deal. Following hot on the heels of the R1 launched a year earlier, it gave the supersport class an almighty kick up the backside.

The R6 redefined the 600 class and, a year later, gave Yamaha its first World Supersport title. Showroom success followed. The bike sold by the lorry load to road riders and racers alike. For the former, that ‘must have’ appeal proved irresistible; for the latter, the expression ‘must have’ couldn’t have been more apt. At both club and national level, the bike was a revelation. Save for a few cosmetic tweaks, the R6 stayed the same up until 2003, when fuel injection replaced the carburettors, a die-cast black chassis replaced pressed aluminium, and a host of other changes made the bike a far more useful tool for the road. To many die-hard R6 fans though, the bike had become too civilised and gone the direction of Honda’s useful-butslightly-dull CBR600F, at a time when Honda was taking a bold step the other way with the super-focused CBR600RR. Yamaha’s success in Supersport racing started to fade along with sales. Then came the 2006 machine. A bike so radically different from the rest of the six-pack that looks alone made it the winner that
it so very nearly was in World Supersport racing at its first attempt last year.
Very soon I will do a comparison-review between the old and the new R6.
Dry roads, riders!
Peace!

AKRAPOVIC ZX-6R RACE FULL SYSTEM

Akrapovic EVO

I’d consider buying this for its sheer beauty – and I’m not even running a ZX-6R this year.
This new Akro system is simply stunning. And it’s not all show either, as the pipes promise plenty of go too – up to 7bhp if the fi gures are to be believed. Factor in weight savings (the stock system is 11.55kg, the system with stainless headers is 6.28kg and the full titanium system is an amazing 4.71kg) and you’ve got every reason to splash out. The headers use smart hydroforming technology while the muffler is titanium topped off with a fancy carbon fi bre end cap. As used by the Kawasaki supersport team in the US, it’ll go straight onto Handley’s ZX-6R as soon as it comes back from Kawasaki after Neil sent it back to base for a refill of fuel and a wipe down. This version has steel headers, but go full titanium with the ‘Evo’ system – if you can afford the price: ~ $3000. I think I'll pass for now...

Apologizing

Hey bikers!
I just want to say I am really sorry for not posting any new reviews lately, but I have been really...I mean, REALLY busy. All sort of problems just waiting in line to get to me. I hope you'll still visit the blog because I will start posting again soon.
Ride safe !
Thanks for understanding me. Peace!
Danny.

200 MPH? GO FOR IT!

200mph is still a magic number, despite bikes getting ever more powerful and aerodynamically sleek. The fi nal push over the top needs exponentially more power – and that’s where Big CC Racing’s turbo Kawasaki ZZR1400 comes in...

Here are 10 steps to follow if you ever want to get there...just imagine...200 mph. Few guys ever try for this top speed, even fewer succeed. If you follow these 10 steps, you may get it, high chances.

1 BUY A QUICK BIKE

There are plenty of quick bikes out there, there are even a handful that are restricted to 186mph, but as those crazy yanks say, there’s no replacement for displacement – and that’s where the Kawasaki ZZR1400 comes into its own. Pumping out nearly 190bhp at the crank, the Kawasaki is one bike that has to be electronically
restricted to 186mph (300kph) to comply with the gentleman’s speed agreement set by the Japanese manufacturers. But even without the restriction there’s still not enough poke to top the two hundred. This is where motorcycling gets murky and tuners delve into their own little world of anabolic steroids – or rather turbos, superchargers and nitrous oxide.

2 SEND IT TO A TOP TUNER
Big CC Racing should be the fi rst port of call if you’ve got a big horsepower project planned. With 10 years of experience under the Big CC banner, Sean Mills and his crack team of engine builders are some of the world’s fi nest. Having built street bikes with over 700bhp barely contained inside them, there’s plenty of scope to build a bike to whatever budget you can afford.

3 WHACK A DIRTY BIG TURBO ON THERE


"I’m a firm believer of using big turbos,” says Sean from Big CC Racing. “Of course
they give bigger power but it’s more controllable, you’re getting more grunt from
less boost. All boost is, is a measurement of backed-up air that is yet to go through
the engine and turbo system, so we’re dealing with the volumetric movement of air and this bigger turbo deals with everything really well. Smaller turbos give a smaller powerband and make them unmanageable in comparison. With the turbo we use on the ZZR, power is pretty linear and there are no big surprises.” This Big CC Hybrid stage one kit is fl exible too, forming a modular system that can be upgraded
depending on how much you want to do to the bike’s internals – and how much money you’ve got. Using a GT3071R Garrett turbine and a 38mm Tial wastegate the parts are capable for more power than is actually generated in the stage one system. Originally I designed the kit to run at 6psi where it would generate 275bhp. In this state, it’s running at 10psi and putting out 325bhp, but it will run up to one bar of pressure with a change of spring and engine map where we’ve seen 374bhp but the turbo itself is good for 500bhp.” Wow. But what about turbo lag? Sean reckons there’s no worries here, “Boot the throttle of a turbo car and you’re not going to get an instant reaction because you’ve got to move maybe two-tonnes of car that isn’t revving particularly hard. Bikes have an advantage in that they weigh a lot less and you’re already on the move, the engine is already doing lots of the work so lag isn’t really a problem.”

4 DO VERY LITTLE TO THE INTERNALS
Because the ZZR1400 boasts such fi ne (and robust) engineering as standard, there’s not an awful lot you need to do to the internals for this 325bhp conversion. The
head comes off, add a spacer plate with a thicker head gasket to change the compression ratio – and that’s it. The pistons, rods and injection system handle
it with ease. The turbo kit comes in at £3,500, adjustable vernier camshaft
sprockets are £500 (to allow the timing to be altered) and installation is £500. That makes a ride-in, ride-out 200mph price an incredible £4,500. Everything on the stage one kit is built for big power, the only restriction on it is set by fuel and
the boost settings. With internal work, the stage two uses a two stage boost controller and uses a clever piggyback system using two Power Commanders that work out additional boost referencing, along with other parts (like 750cc injectors and fuel regulator) to make nearly 500bhp.

5 HAVE THE RIGHT FUEL
MaxNOS is the daddy of all race fuel, it’s like EPO for engines. It makes normal race
fuel look like Kia-Ora compared to this fire breathing absinth. For normal use, super
unleaded is fine, but because it wasn’t our bike and because we were going to work the bike hard we thought it prudent to get some uber-fl ash go-go juice. MaxNOS is a fuel for the drag racing world. At 119 RON, it’s for engines that are on the limit of their development – although the ZZR was nowhere near the envelope of its operation. Here’s a quick lesson on octane ratings. Tempting as it is to think this, higher octane fuel on its own does not mean more powerful petrol. The octane rating
refers to the mixture of iso-octane and n-heptane in the fuel. The higher the octane rating the less likely ‘knocking’ will occur (where the fuel/air mix detonates before its ideal time through compression rather than the spark plug), which is vital on high compression and turbo engines. Fuels can be formulated to provide more
energy in conjunction with the higher octane rating, but on its own, octane does
not boost performance. So one trip to a drag car shop, and £94 later (for a 25-litre drum of the stuff), and we’re ready.

6 GET THE GEARING RIGHT
It’s all very well having 325bhp available at the rear wheel, but if you don’t get
your gearing right, a stock GSX-R1000 could be faster. When you’re dealing with
relatively confi ned spaces gearing becomes crucial. Too short and you reach top speed well before your braking point, too long and you’re only just getting into your stride when you have to slam the anchors on. Standard gearing on the ZZR1400 is a 17-tooth sprocket at the front and a 41-tooth sprocket at the rear. So it’ll potter around town without too much fuss and then rocket you up to over 180mph. Flexibility is great – until such point as you want to be focussed on one remarkable goal. So we stuck an 18 tooth sprocket on the front in the hope that would boost speed to 200mph.

7 IRON OUT SOME TEETHING PROBLEMS
We picked the bike up from Big CC, after they had changed the front sprocket to the
18-toother, and headed up to Bruntingthorpe, unwittingly with the wrong race fuel. Greeted by perfect conditions, we had to delay our top-speed runs because we thought
some BSB-spec Elf race fuel would be OK. A phone call to check revealed that MaxNOS would be better. Suitably chastened, Dave and I went home with our tails between our legs, desperately trying to find someone who would sell us some race fuel or Avgas.
The second attempt proved more fruitful, fuel procured, we headed out on another windless day to hit... 195.1mph and not a mile per hour more. We had hit the limit of the bike with half of the two mile runway to spare. Dave said that he’s never been so fast but so pissed off at the same time. Even though we’d fitted one tooth on the front sprocket it was not enough to drag us to 200mph. So we were straight on
the phone trying to source some different sprockets, although this is a task that’s more easily said than done because most people shorten a ZZR1400’s gearing rather than try and make it go faster...

8 FIND A STRAIGHT ROAD
Instead of fannying about on the roads, we took the ZZR1400 to the longest piece of straight Tarmac we could fi nd. After all, with a massive air fi lter poking out of the Kawasaki’s innards there’s not much scope to go scratching round the lanes, although once you calibrate the revised lean angles the bike is still good fun to scurry around on. The road to Bruntingthorpe is a well-trodden path for us at SuperBike. Why? It’s easy, the café there does the best cooked breakfasts in Christendom. It’s also a handy spot for doing speed testing because there’s not an awful lot to stop you. Strong crosswinds can hamper a run, but on a calm day you can max a bike out, easy. And there’s not much to crash into either. Well...

9 GET SOME MEASURING EQUIPMENT
We’ll probably see the big 200 on the ZZR’s dials, but the chances are you’re no-where near because inaccuracies with the speedo magnify the quicker you go, especially if you start messing around with the gearing. So we brought along a Racelogic Performance Box to back-up our boasting. As it’s based on GPS satellites
measuring your every move you can guarantee that the fi nal fi gure it spews out is accurate. It’ll be our proof that we actually did break the double ton.

10 BREATH IN AND BURY THE THROTTLE
After two false dawns, Dave and I were suffering from summit fever – we had to climb this mountain no matter what, so it was time to bring the big balls out. Or so we thought. 200mph has been a mythical figure for so long, but after just 20.7 seconds our goal had been reached. So much for building up to these things. What I’d like to be telling you now is how difficult it was to attain this fi gure, how manly and
brave we were to pin the throttle for so long, but never has going this fast been so easy. The most difficult part of getting to 200mph was launching the ZZR with venom.
With 325bhp ready to explode through the standard rear Bridgestone BT-015 tyre, the first few metres of this quest were the hairiest of all. Retaining its standard swingarm, the ZZR1400 just wanted to head skywards down the runway in its fi rst three gears. 100mph went along time ago, after just six seconds. 14 seconds later and we’d crack it - and strangely things were getting easier. A fuelling hiccup as you change gear that had yet to be dynoed out (Sean insists that this was easily
cured) hampered the runs under fullpower, but unless the throttle is pinned you don’t notice this, nor just how astonishing easily the turbo makes its power. By fourth gear the bike – and rider – had just about settled into the swing of things, with the front tyre now returning to employment and the bike settling into the run. It only wanted to maim me now where-as before it was intent on murder. This is like no ZZR1400, indeed no bike, I’d ever ridden before because the acceleration it generates is like nothing else on two wheels. I’d try and compare it to something to give you some perspective, but I’ve never been strapped to a Tomahawk missile before.
By now the speedo arm is well on its way through its second lap, but behind the bike’s big bubble it’s remarkably serene. As stable at this speed as it is 150mph slower, the ZZR charges through barrier – although I’ve got my eyes on the end of the runway rather than the GPS logger telling me I’ve broken 200mph. And that’s it. 202.9mph. As easy as that. So easy that Dave and I sucked our way through most of that £94 barrel of fuel hitting 200mph again and again and again. With even better gearing it’s good for at least 210mph, maybe even 215mph. We even contemplated what
the bike would do two-up, but thought better of it. This was like fi nding out that
someone had fitted a Stannah stair lift on Mount Everest. But what the hell, we
did it. Before we handed the bike back to its owner (who tours round Europe with
his wife on it – with panniers too!) It was time for one more magical run. So another thing crossed off my to-do list of life – and who cares that it was a doddle.

Thanks to: Big CC Racing
www.bigccracing.com
and Superbike
www.superbike.co.uk

GAERNE CYPHER BOOT

Most boot manufacturers moved their production out of Italy because Italian craftsmen
were paid more than their Asian counterparts. The Cypher proves that a serious buyer can still get a great Italian boot for under $200.
An Italian-made boot for under two bills

WHAT IS IT? An inexpensive Gaerne boot that has many of the same features as their expensive boots.
WHAT’S IT COST? $199.99
WHAT'S IT DO? If it seems to you that motocross boots are popping up faster than garage bands on YouTube, you are right. When production switched from the cottage industry boot manufacturers in the Italian Alps to factories in Asia, the prices dropped and the number of boot marketeers rose. This is great for the consumer, who gets more choices at lower prices. The quality of
the Pacific Rim products has risen so quickly that it is almost impossible to find a true-to-life Italian-made boot in the showrooms of America today, especially in the
lower price ranges. But the MXA wrecking crew found one!

Gaerne, a long-standing producer of high-quality, Italian made motocross boots, hasn’t moved its production to Taiwan, Mainland China, Thailand or any of the former
Eastern Bloc countries. They continue to make boots the old fashioned way—in Italy. Gaerne believes that boots should be made by dedicated craftsmen, and that theory
is gaining some traction, based on the success of the topof- the-line Gaerne SG-10 and its mid-priced Fastback brother. Yet few motocrossers know that Gaerne makes a
sub-$200 boot in Italy. The MXA wrecking crew was fascinated by the concept of a lower-cost boot from Italy and set out to test the $199 Gaerne Cypher.
WHAT STANDS OUT? Here’s a list of things that
stand out with Gaerne’s Cypher boot.

Buckles. Unlike on the Fastback and SG-10,
Gaerne uses plastic buckles on the Cypher instead of metal. Even with the cost-cutting, though, the Cypher buckles are very durable and cinch easily. The straps are
simple to adjust. One caveat, however; overtightening can make the boot crease at the ankle and cause discomfort.

Sizing. The Cypher shares a common trait with
Gaerne’s high-end boots in that the sizing runs to the large side. If you wear a size ten boot in another brand, try a size nine Cypher. Once the MXA wrecking crew
made the sizing adjustment, we were shocked by how comfortable the boot was. The foot bed was roomy for the wider feet of Americans, while the toe box was perfect.

Materials. What makes the Cypher stand out from its competition? The white tag with black lettering that says “Made in Italy.” Those words speak volumes in a market inundated with boots from China. The Cypher
also has a steel toe, steel shank and quality construction.
These boots last a long time!

Sole. The sole on the Cypher came straight off of the SG-10. The sole is strong, lasts forever, and doesn't chunk apart from footpeg abuse. We loved this sole on the SG-10 and Fastback.

Place of manufacture. The Gaerne Cypher boot is made in Italy.
WHAT'S THE SQUAWK?
The sizing is a full size off, so make sure to order a smaller size than you normally
would.

HONDA CB600F Hornet

If it would have been to a party, the Hornet would've been the understated, cool bloke all the ladies are interested in. Like a shiny, metallic lozenge, the Honda’s collector box is exposed when the Hornet is in its most comfortable pose – on its ear.

Engine
The complete opposite of convention – Honda’s gone for the most up-to-date 600cc engine it makes, and used it for the Hornet. That means the super-compact, lightweight motor from the 2007 CBR600RR, with a lower compression ratio and smaller inlets.

Type: l/c, 16v, DOHC inline-four
Displacement: 599cc
Bore x Stroke: 67x42.5mm Compression: 12:1
Carburation: PGM-FI fuel injection, 36mm throttle bodies
Gearbox: Six-speed, chain Power: 91.8bhp@11,800rpm
Torque: 43.3lbf ft@7,10,200rpm

Fuel injection
PGM-FI system uses 36mm throttle bodies, and one injector per cylinder compared with
the CBR600RR’s 40mm bores and dual injectors per cylinder.

Brakes
Two systems available – base setup has sliding twin-piston calipers up front, CBS/ABS version uses triple-piston front calipers, linked to the back brake, and an ABS system. The rear pedal operates the centre piston of the right hand front caliper as well as the rear caliper, via a delay valve that prevents small applications of rear brake applying the front.

Frame
The old bike’s steel backbone frame is replaced with a similarly-shaped cast aluminium backbone which is lighter and stiffer.
Suspension
41mm USD forks have no adjustment, rear monoshock is preload adjustable.

Exhaust
The most controversial part of the whole design – short stubby silencer and kinked downpipes look great from the right hand side. But emissions regs mean a large chamber tucked under the left hand side that’s pretty ugly. Designed to centralise
and lower mass while meeting noise and emissions regs.



Chassis: Cast aluminium backbone
Suspension: (F) 41mm USD forks, unadjustable
(R) monoshock, preload adjust
Brakes: (F)Twin 296mm discs, dual-piston calipers/threepiston calipers (CBS)
(R) 240mm disc, single-piston caliper
Wheels/Tyres: Cast aluminium/Bridgestone BT012
(F)120/70 17
(R)180/55 17
Seat Height: 800mm
Wheelbase:1,435mm
Capacity: 19 litres (4.2 gal) (4.1 gal)
Dry Weight: 173kg (381lb) [+4kg for ABS version)
The price is around 11,000 $ (5600 GBP) and it may vary depending on the local dealer. It's reasonable...I would definitely buy it!
Dry roads, riders!

KAWASAKI Z750

The new Z750 was blessed with extraordinary good looks by it's maker.And that's not all that's good about it...

Engine
We’re slightly suspicious of the big K’s insistence on sticking with this lump – derived from the Z1000, itself derived from the ZX-9R. It would have to be better to
use a more modern ZX-636R-based design, we say. Having said that, it’s a lusty lump,
and, for 2007, it boasts updated dual-valve fuel injection with smaller throttle bodies (32mm from 34mm), finer injector nozzles and new ECU. The result is slightly less peak power, down 4bhp, but more claimed torque: 58lbf ft@8,300rpm instead of
55lbf ft@8,200rpm.

Type: l/c, 16v, DOHC inline-four Displacement: 748cc
Bore x Stroke: 68.4x50.9mm Compression: 11.3:1
Carburation: Dual-valve fuel injection, 32mm oval bodies
Gearbox: Six-speed, chain
Power: 94.3bhp@10,100rpm
Torque: 53.6lbf ft@8,300rpm

Frame
Steel tube backbone type frame now gets a pair of bolt-on aluminium bracing bars which run either side of the engine. This alters the stiffness of the frame, as well as relocating the engine mounts to cut vibration.

Suspension
New USD front fork has 41mm stanchions, with preload and rebound damping adjustment.
Rear monoshock is also preload/rebound adjustable.

Brakes
Discs are now ‘petal’ types all round. Front calipers are still twinpiston sliding calipers.
ABS is an option that costs another extra ~700$

Exhaust
Smart short silencer has massive triangular dual-cone shape, and contains an electrically-operated butterfly valve to cut noise and improve torque low-down in the
rev range.

The price (around 11,000 $) may fool you into thinking that the Z750 isn’t a scratcher, but nothing could be further from the truth.

Kawasaki’s design team has been one of the busiest in the business, and has come up trumps with the smart new look of the Z.

DYNO
The power is fine, but it’s the torque curve that tells the story of the Z. It hits 40lbf ft about 3,000rpm, then stays nice and fl at until past 10k, with a decent bump about 8,000. It’s a clear 10lbf ft stronger than the 600s at peak, and has an
even bigger advantage at several spots in the rev range. No substitute for cubes...


Chassis: Steel tube backbone/aluminium engine subframe
Suspension: (F) 41mm USD forks, preload/rebound damping adj (R) monoshock, preload/rebound damping adj
Brakes: (F) twin 300mm petal discs, dual-piston calipers (R)
250mm petal disc, single-piston caliper
Wheels/Tyres: Cast aluminium/Dunlop Qualifi er (F) 120/70 17
(R) 180/55 17
Seat Height: 815mm
Wheelbase: 1,440mm
Capacity: 18.5 litres (4.1 gal)
Dry Weight: 203kg (447lb) [+4kg for ABS version.
About it for this sweet Kawa. I hope i convinced you in the dilemma ob buying it or not. It's a good motorcycle but the choice is yours.
Dry roads, riders!

Courting silencers

What do they do?
If the name was correct, a silencer would mean that you’d hear nothing from the pipe of a motorcycle. So a silencer is more like a quietner, reducing what would be a god-awful din into something far more harmonious. All bikes come with silencers, but due
to worldwide noise and emmissions laws stock silencers can rob a bike of power and leave it sounding muted.

Why do I need a new one?
You need a new one because the stock exhaust is either too restrictive, too quiet or too damn ugly. Aftermarket manufacturers don’t have to abide by emmissions laws, so mechanically speaking, their products are far more effecient – meaning you get a more
powerful machine. Chances are, it’ll sound a lot better too and with the new trend of odd looking end cans, you can tailor you bike to suit your style.

What to look for
It’s easy to look at what’s on a race bike and think that what’s good for the goose is good for the gander too. But some exhaust companies just pay for their logo to be on a bike - rather than supply the exhaust itself. Established brands are usually the best to go for, although big gains can be had elsewhere. Check out bike specifi c
forums for tried and tested reports. You’ll then have to decide if you want an ‘illegal’ race pipe (stamped ‘not for raod use’ or stick to the letter of the law. Some fi rms offer a removeable baffl e for the best of both worlds. But remember - loud pipes save lives...

MICRON
GSX-R1000
SLIP ON SILENCER

A good silencer can add power, smarten up a bike’s looks and sound great

British engineering doesn’t get much better than these Micron MotoGP style exhaust cans. Using the fi rm’s unique hydraforming technology (other companies use this
technology but nowhere near to the same levels as Micron) these cans talk the talk as well as walking the walk. The hyrdaforming process uses just one piece of pipe to make the whole unit. The end cap is then cut off to add the baffle wadding (and to make it serviceable in the future) and then rivetted back on. This process saves 1.4 kilos over the stock unit and adds up to 10bhp according to Micron, who has seen
big gains above 8,250 revs through to 11,500rpm. There’s no need to add a Power Commander either as Micron’s design doesn’t neccessitate big changes in fuelling. Road legal and available in three fi nishes they offer great performance at a very keen price. You could do a lot, lot worse. It's under 1000 $ . Very nice! If it's available near you, at the local dealer, BUY IT!

Suzuki GSX650F 2008

Suzuki also wheeled out this thoroughly refreshed version of the tired old GSX600F





Essentially a 650 Bandit in a party frock. But its GSX-R inspired appearance should draw legions of fans looking for sportsbike style with greater practicality and low running costs. Cheap to buy too, at around 9,600$ (£4,800)